I
grew up in southern New Jersey and still have a very strong attachment
to diners. The gleaming aluminum
exteriors and gaudy neon DINER signs
lure me like a Pied Piper over the cliffs of caloric insanity. As a
child, a diner was a familiar, but somehow still exotic, place where
you could
get breakfast 24 hours a day. There, you could always have your eggs
cooked just the way you liked them, but it was years before I stopped
mimicking the behavior of my parents and actually learned the difference
between "sunny side up" and "over easy." Of course,
diners were the only place I actually had a choice as to what kind of
eggs I could have, as my brother and I weren't taken to non-fast food
places very often. I could also order foods that I would rarely – or
never – get at home. Strange things like scrapple, creamed chipped
beef, and porkroll always seemed liked the height of daring experimentation
to my childish palate. But mostly, diners were about more. More pages
to the menu, more types of cake in the revolving cases with more layers
and icing than you ever thought possible, more food on your plate, more,
more, more. And the choices were never exactly foreign; they were, really,
like home-cooked food – just bigger and better. The diner is a
world of über comfort food: inch-thick pieces of french toast topped
with fruit and whipped cream, ham slices the size of dinner plates, and
untold cups of coffee – the bottom of which was never allowed
to see the light of day. |
Of course, food quality various
greatly from one diner to the next. I've had some really great meals
and some really
God-awful ones; most
have fallen somewhere in the middle. It's been my experience that the
larger the diner, the better the meal; eat at a small one (particularly
one that's never been extended or renovated) and you're likely to spend
a few hours digesting a gut bomb. Regardless of the quality of the
meal, all diner food shares an unpretentiousness that was (and still
is) a
big part of the diners' charm. Much of what we think of as comfort
food (mashed potatoes smothered in gravy, meatloaf, pancakes, etc.)
are mainstays
on most diner menus. So diners really are a bit like eating at home – except
that you don't have to clean up after yourself when you're done. And
let's not forget about the cool tabletop jukebox. |